HBO’s docuseries “100 Foot Wave,” which premiered earlier this month, takes viewers on a thrilling journey with a group of big wave surfers as they traverse the globe in search of the planet’s most massive swells. The series, now in its third season, delves into the lives and challenges of these extreme athletes, capturing both the exhilaration and the dangers they face.
The Human Cost of Big Wave Surfing
Big wave surfer Garrett McNamara, 57, has spent decades chasing waves the size of office buildings, risking his life in the process. In a recent interview with PEOPLE, McNamara admitted that his relentless pursuit has taken a significant toll on his body. “I’ve hit the water so many times, really hard, and had hundreds of mild concussions, perhaps even a thousand or more,” he said. “At least three of them were major concussions. And every time your brain bounces off the inside of your skull, you do a little damage that’s really hard to reverse.”
The Series and Its Impact
“100 Foot Wave” follows McNamara and nearly a dozen other surfers, including Andrew “Cotty” Cotton, CJ Macias, Justine DuPont, Lucas “Chumbo” Chianca, Nic von Rupp, Kai Lenny, Pedro “Scooby” Vianna, Tony Laureano, Ian Cosenza, and Michelle des Bouillons. The series captures their travels to locations such as Cortes Bank off the California coast, Safi in Morocco, Montaldo in Italy, and O’ahu in Hawaii.
It also documents the emotional impact of the death of surfing legend Márcio “Mad Dog” Freire, the first-ever surfer to die at Nazaré, Portugal. McNamara described Freire as “a pioneer, a badass, and the best surfer in the world,” noting that his passing was “very challenging for the whole community.”
The Appeal of Big Wave Surfing
Despite the risks, the allure of big wave surfing remains strong. Director Chris Smith, known for his work on “Tiger King,” explained the series’ appeal: “When we first started the project, Garrett said to me, ‘little person on big wave. People like that.’ It’s really that simple. Imagining trying to surf down a six or seven-story building is just terrifying.” Smith added that after six years of working on the show, the hundred-foot milestone has become less important. “The series is about so much more than that,” he said.
A Spiritual Journey
For McNamara, the thrill of big wave surfing has evolved into something more profound. “I’ve chosen to make it more of a spiritual practice now,” he said. “It used to be just the opposite for me. But now I’m just grateful to be out there in the water. When you get in the barrel and you see the lip coming down, you’re in your own little world — and all you can do is try and process the beautiful moment and the freedom of being in the water.”
Catch the Next Wave
New episodes of “100 Foot Wave” air Thursdays and can be streamed on Max.
